Vacation On The Vineyard

On Martha's Vineyard this week, I happened to pick up this week's New Yorker, where I found my thoughts mirrored in Calvin Trillin's paean to classic and simple foods: "What Happened To Brie And Chablis?"

If you don't have a copy of the magazine, here is a snippet of Trillin's witty poem on page 69:

"You miss, let's say, trout amandine?
Take hope from some menus I've seen:
Fondue has been spotted of late
And -- yes, to my near disbelief --
Tartare not from tuna but beef.
They all may return. Just you wait."

Now, I am as big a fan of squash blossoms and huitlacoche as anyone, but I still find comfort in old-fashioned recipes and simple ingredients. This week, I indulged in locally-caught smoked bluefish from Larsen's Fish Market of Menemsha, some downright fantastic brick-oven pizza at Lattanzi's, a breakfast of poached eggs over cayenne-spiked crab cakes at The Daggett House (Closed as of 2004), a wonderful linguine with garlicky white clam sauce at Chesca's (oh, the visceral pleasure of those impeccably fresh littlenecks), and rich creamy fudge at Murdick's (one variety made with Cape Cod cranberries).

I also conducted my own informal fish-and-chips contest, involving Nancy's Harborview Restaurant, Seafood Shanty, The Wharf Restaurant and the winner: The Black Dog Tavern. The Black Dog's superior rendition was a plate of steaming moist fish in a crispy cornmeal crust over a heap of French fries, served with a side of homemade slaw.

When I recover from this week of excess, I will be ready to sample more of the Big Apple's glorious offerings! Stay tuned for new reviews.